The following troubleshooting information is generalized to deal with most wah pedals. If you have a different problem, or the suggestions do not help, feel free to contact us. When contacting RMC with specific problems, always be sure to include the serial number of your RMC wah.

If your early (late 2006/early 2007) FFT equipped RMC wah has too high of an output for your rig and is causing distortion, feedback, or funky harmonics, please contact me for an easy (soldering required) fix. These units can be identified by a silver paint (or black Sharpie on the WW/RMC5) signature on the bottom plate sticker. Newer, gold signature (this refers to my signature on stickers on the bottom plate) units already feature this modification. This does not pertain to any long-box/FL model, any models with screen-printed bottom plates, or any other RMC wah built since late 2007.

Q: How can I make my rocker tighter?
A: If you have an older RMC wah, this answer can be found on the ADJUSTMENT HELP page. As of October 2006, all RMC wahs have easily adjustable rocker tension with adjustment under the rear of the rocker.

Q: My switch is acting weird and won't engage all the time. What is going on?
A: This answer can also be found on the ADJUSTMENT HELP page. As of October 2006, we have ceased using the blue 3PDT in favor of a more reliable switch.

Q: My wah makes a scratchy sound when I sweep with the rocker.
A: The best bet is your older (CTS built if an RMC wah) wah pot has some foreign matter stuck on the interior carbon track. When the wiper goes over the gunk slowly there is no scratch as the wiper doesn't lose contact with the carbon track. When the wiper goes over the gunk fast (regular speed of use) then the wiper loses contact with the carbon track and makes a noise when it reconnects. Use spray tuner cleaner/lube such as RADIO SHACK #64-4315. Do not use simple compressed air. If the spray does no good then the pot should be replaced. This spray works great on amp controls also and should be part of every player's crash-kit. If your wah is an RMC,look at the rear of the pot and you'll see a black plastic dust seal. That dust seal can be moved/removed. The access to the pot's interior can be found directly below/underneath the 3 solder lugs. That is where you will direct the cleaner/lube spray. Spray heavily, rotate the pot several times, spray again, rotate again. WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!! RMC wah owners should use WD-40 instead of a tuner cleaner/lube for the open architecture (with removable rubber dust cap) ROC-POTS. According to my original ROC-POT manufacturer, CTS, WD-40 is the recommended cleaning agent for my RMC ROC-POTS. WD-40 is NOT recommended for pots that are not RMC ROC-POTS (1-4). The CTS pots generally have a 250,000 cycle lifespan. As of 2021, all RMC wah pots are sealed and cannot be cleaned.

Q: My wah picks up radio signals.
A: This is an age old problem with wah pedals. Contact me directly so I can determine the proper solution, which depends on the model and revision that you own. Current RMC wahs have several types of RFI blocking as standard.

Q: I get a squeal when I turn on the wah.
A: The older, case-mounted input jack could be out of alignment. Without removing the plug in the input, take off the bottom plate and inspect the jack/plug connection. The tip connector on the jack is probably not seated properly on the plug tip. This can happen with most any free-standing jack.  Also, make sure input is input (from the guitar) and output is output (to the amp).  Some British wahs have reversed ins and outs.  You could also try increasing the distance between your wah and amp.

Q: My wah has started getting static, or buzzing, or makes a strange noise when I turn it on or off.
A: Check the older, case-mounted input and output jacks to see if they are tight. A loose jack can cause any number of problems, not limited to those mentioned.  These symptoms (in addition to no or intermittent signal) could also indicate a failed or failing on/off switch. Also check to make sure the bottom plate is secure.

Q: I received a new switch for my wah but I don't know where the wires go.  There are more solder lugs than the Carlings.
A: Here's a shot of the wiring of my 3PDT switches (dropped in late 2006).  Be careful when soldering because the switches are heat sensitive. Solder the lugs on  either end first so you don't burn the insulation on the middle green and white wires.  To get the right switch height, use either one of the nuts, the toothed washer, or the plastic washer as the spacer between the switch body and the interior of the case.  If you use one of the washers, do NOT over-tighten the top hex nut.  Just make it snug so you don't rip the switch bushing apart. More info can be found on the ADJUSTMENT HELP page.

Q: My wah hums with a power adapter.
A: Most power adapters are poorly filtered, if at all.  Even wahs with power filters built-in can hum with some of the power systems out there.  Try adding a diode (1N914 is cool) to the adapter jack's "+ power" to the board wire .  The "clear glass" end towards the jack, the end with the stripe gets the wire lead.  If that is not enough, add a 100uF/25V electrolytic cap between the + (striped) end of the diode and the power jack's negative lug. The next Q/A (below) is also of great importance. All RMC wahs already have power filtering. If your RMC wah hums then the most likely cause of the problem is an EMI source close to the wah. Our new Karmaflux inductor is fairly impervious to EMI. RMC can install a Karmaflux inductor in any RMC wah, new or old, that has an EMI hum problem.

Q: My wah hums and I only use batteries.
A: This is an age old problem.  Traditional wah inductors are very sensitive to EMI and power leads, just like old single-coil pickups.  This include cables running to and from power supplies.  Try moving your wah away from other cables and from power supplies.  If all is well, you'll need to re-think your pedalboard layout.  If it still hums, check to see if both jacks are secure.  Tighten if needed.  The hum could also be caused by a failed or failing on/off switch, although this is rare.  Be attentive of any switching problems to help ID the problem as being switch related. If you are using a power supply for other effects then the power supply could be causing the electromagnetic interference (EMI). If you are using other effects that have a power supply or transformer inside them, then that effect is possibly causing the hum to appear in your wah. The only way to determine the EMI source is by trial and error, removing the power from EVERYTHING, including the power to any battery eliminating power supply, turning the wah on, and listening as you power up each device, one device at a time. This is a time consuming process but it is the only way to determine the source of the EMI bubble. Our new Karmaflux inductor is fairly impervious to EMI. RMC can install a Karmaflux inductor in any RMC wah, new or old, that has an EMI hum problem. Karmaflux inductors are not available for DIY installation.

Q: I need to change my pot.  How do I do it?
A: The following is a copy of the instructions the Thomas Organ Company included in their first issue wahs. My old CTS pots were designed with an extra-long bushing in order to resemble the old Icar pots. These long bushings require the addition of 2 large metal washers to shore up the excess bushing length.

 

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