PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS
PHYSICAL FEEL OF THE ROCKER
THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION IS FOR OLDER RMC WAH CASES
If the feel of your
RMC wah is too soft/loose, you can tighten it up by tightening the small
hex nuts on the inside of the pedal. One is near the battery area. You
should be able to tighten that one enough to firm up the feel, without
even getting to the other nut located under the pc board.
It is also possible to add tension by tightening the screw which holds the cable clamp/rack gear tensioner in place (against the pot gear). You can push the clamp/tensioner against the gear firmly as you tighten the screw and be assured you've done what you can with this method. This isn't really very good for the potentiometer and may cause early failure. However, in a pinch this might work.
As something of
a last ditch effort, the case can be fully dismantled, the flat spring
turned around 180 degrees (so the built-in angle falls in a different
place), and then all reassembled. (The "flat spring" is the
metal "strap" that runs over the axle which attaches the
rocker to the base. The flat spring is what exerts added pressure as
you tighten the nuts mentioned at the beginning of this section.)
ON/OFF SWITCH ADJUSTMENT
SMALL DPDT, and large ITALIAN switch ADJUSTMENT
BLUE TPDT ADJUSTMENT
So, how do you know if your switch is bad or just needs height adjustment? Here's an easy test. Use your thumb to repeatedly cycle the switch while there is a signal passing through the wah. If the switch funtions properly 100% of the time in this test then the switch is operationaly sound. If the switch does not function properly 100% of the time in this test then the switch should be replaced.
If your switch tests perfectly but does not function 100% of the time in "real world" usage then you will need to address either the switch height or the ft/lb of pressure you use to activate the switch as you would have already verified the functionality of the switch and therefore negated the possibility of the problem being one of switch failure.
I've had a number of people ask me why I don't use the Carlingswitch DPDT. Simple - the switch tooling is worn out (according to Carling engineers) and their failure rate is dismal. I used them for 10 years and dropped them in early 2002. Rumour had it that the tooling had been replaced so I bought 10 in order to try out their latest, greatest, RoHS compliant product. Well, 7 of 10 worked when installed in wahs and 2 of those 7 have since been replaced because of failure. No matter how you juggle the numbers, that's still an unacceptable 50% failure rate, and at $20 per switch that is a load of crap. The current Italian switch I'm using is quieter and longer lasting than the EH Blue 3PDT I used from 2002-2006.